I went to bed with explosions banging outside my Beijing apartment on the fourth night of Chinese New Year. They began again this morning around 8. Today is the fifth day, a very important one in the 15 day celebration. This is the day the Chinese pay tribute to the birthday of Guan Yu, the Chinese God of wealth. The fireworks, that everyone seems to have is supposed to get Guan Yu’s attention and bring prosperity. My friend said it another way, “this is the day you bomb the **** out of poverty. This is a big one.”
I can’t imagine how this could get any bigger. I can’t believe that nobody told me what it was going to be like in Beijing during this time of year. I don’t know what to make of the whole Spring festival celebration. There seems to be so much more to it than ushering in the year of the Tiger.
One thing is for sure, this is the most important Chinese holiday; there can be no doubt about that. My nerves can attest to it. A westerner could never imagine the intensity of the first night when the Chinese welcome the deities of heaven and earth. Beijing became a simulated war zone for incessant hours on end. These flashes of light and horrific blasts are also meant to scare away Nien, the children eating monster of Chinese mythology. I should have suspected something when I saw fireworks tents set up on virtually every corner a week before the big night. My ears are ringing. And it is not over.
There is so much to know about this holiday, so many ancient stories, so many rituals. I am sure I won’t begin to understand them this year. I like the one about the Jade Emperor- Tian Gong-heavenly grandfather-Taoist ruler of heaven, man and hell. On the eve of the new lunar year, the Jade Emperor comes down and assesses the deeds of men and rewards and punishes accordingly. His birthday is the ninth day of the festival, so there is clearly more to look forward to.
What most people do know about Chinese New Year (Chun Yun) is that it is the largest yearly migration on earth when the Chinese must reunite with their families if at all possible. The ritual cleaning of the house and red decorations help dispel evil spirits. Ancestors are worshipped. The food preparations begin weeks in advance to ensure large quantities for the New Year’s dinner. After dinner the Northern Chinese make jao-zi (dumplings) together which they will eat at midnight and of course blow up state-of-the-art fireworks.
I thought maybe I should get out in the streets today and explode some poverty of my own, but given the way a number of Chinese survive here (no sanitation, no heat), I am going to leave it to them. I can’t help wonder how a devoutly secular state can be so superstitious. Is this how they became a world economic power? No doubt some Chinese would say so. And since China’s rising world standing is based on it’s economic strength, maybe this day does have a role in Chinese optimism. How little we know about anything that happens anywhere outside our sphere. When China does rule the world, we will know which gods are honored and what rites are performed on every day of this festival. Until then I have learned that the fifth day is for the God of wealth. I wonder if Washington knows this when the President meets with the Dalai Lama later today.
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